The ten award-winning and newly launched skincare ingredients from the 2026 in-cosmetics shows, what each one does, and the skincare trends they point to for 2027.
Key takeaways
- Three of the ten ingredients won Actives Gold at an in-cosmetics show in 2026: Ignilyte in Bangkok, CALNEURIN SENSE in Paris and INTENSILK in Seoul.
- Neurocosmetics is the clearest global trend: it won Gold in Paris and Bronze in Bangkok in the same year.
- Biotech is now the default origin story, from dragon-fruit stem cells to human milk oligosaccharides made by precision fermentation.
- Sun care and hair care took Gold and Bronze in the functional category, so innovation is no longer limited to face serums.
- A team from Dr Orizi, ORIZI Group’s cosmetics company, met about 18 ingredient principals and distributors at in-cosmetics Asia 2026 in Bangkok to bring these options back to brand projects.
What is in-cosmetics, and which 2026 shows does this list cover?
in-cosmetics is a series of trade shows for personal care ingredients organised by RX, where ingredient makers launch and compete with their newest actives and functional ingredients. In 2026 the series ran four shows: in-cosmetics Global in Paris (14–16 April), in-cosmetics Korea in Seoul (1–3 July), in-cosmetics Latin America in São Paulo (23–24 September) and in-cosmetics Asia in Bangkok (3–5 November). in-cosmetics Asia 2026 was held at BITEC with more than 770 exhibitors announced before the show (organiser press release).
How the list is ordered: award level first (Gold, then Silver, then Bronze) across the 2026 shows, followed by two notable launches that our team saw in Bangkok. Ingredient descriptions are the suppliers’ own, as reported by the organiser and trade press; performance figures are supplier claims.
Top 10 trendy skincare ingredients launched at in-cosmetics 2026
| # | Ingredient | Company | Show and award (2026) | What it does |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Ignilyte™ | Vytrus Biotech | in-cosmetics Asia, Actives Gold | Dragon-fruit stem-cell active for skin regeneration |
| 2 | CALNEURIN® SENSE | RAHN | in-cosmetics Global, Actives Gold | Chicory-root neurocosmetic for skin comfort |
| 3 | INTENSILK™ | Provital | in-cosmetics Korea, Actives Gold | Body active for the appearance of cellulite |
| 4 | TEGO® Filmstar BST1 | Evonik | in-cosmetics Asia, Functional Gold | Biodegradable film former that spreads UV filters evenly |
| 5 | GLYCARE® SK RENEW | dsm-firmenich | in-cosmetics Asia, Actives Silver | Human milk oligosaccharide for sensitive skin |
| 6 | DOWSIL™ EL-9400 | Dow | in-cosmetics Asia, Functional Silver | Silicone elastomer blend in a biodegradable carrier |
| 7 | PrimalHyal™ NeuroYouth | Givaudan Active Beauty | in-cosmetics Asia, Actives Bronze | Hyaluronic acid and amino acids for neuro-rejuvenation |
| 8 | Protecticire® MB | Gattefossé | in-cosmetics Asia, Functional Bronze | Natural wax-butter shield for hair fibres |
| 9 | Lincare™ | BASF | Launched at in-cosmetics Asia | Flaxseed-derived active for skin recovery after laser |
| 10 | Lactopalm Para | CODIF | Launched at in-cosmetics Global, shown in Bangkok | Lacto-fermented red-algae active for pigmentation |
Award results come from the in-cosmetics Asia 2026 awards page, the in-cosmetics Global 2026 winners and Personal Care Magazine’s in-cosmetics Korea 2026 report.
1. Ignilyte (Vytrus Biotech): regeneration from dragon-fruit stem cells
Ignilyte is a 100% natural active from dragon-fruit stem cells, designed to reactivate the skin’s bioelectric potential to support deep regeneration and vitality. It won the Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Award for Actives (Gold) at in-cosmetics Asia 2026 and suits skin longevity and “repair” serums.
2. CALNEURIN SENSE (RAHN): the neurocosmetic that won Paris
CALNEURIN SENSE is a chicory-root active that works on the skin’s sensory pathways to improve how skin feels. It won Actives Gold at in-cosmetics Global 2026 in Paris; we explained it in detail in our look at CALNEURIN SENSE.
3. INTENSILK (Provital): body care joins the innovation race
INTENSILK is a body-care active that Provital positions as the first cosmetic ingredient to mimic caloric restriction in fat cells, for an intensive treatment of the appearance of cellulite. It won Actives Gold at in-cosmetics Korea 2026 in Seoul, showing that body care is getting the same science as facial skincare.
4. TEGO Filmstar BST1 (Evonik): better SPF performance
TEGO Filmstar BST1 is a biodegradable film-forming agent that spreads UV filters more evenly on skin, which helps sunscreens reach their SPF performance. It won Functional Gold at in-cosmetics Asia 2026.
5. GLYCARE SK RENEW (dsm-firmenich): a biotech ingredient for sensitive skin
GLYCARE SK RENEW is a human milk oligosaccharide made by precision biofermentation, meaning the molecule is produced by microorganisms instead of extracted from milk. It is designed to help sensitive and stressed skin recover its resilience, and won Actives Silver in Bangkok.
6. DOWSIL EL-9400 (Dow): silicone feel, lower environmental load
DOWSIL EL-9400 Hybrid Elastomer Blend combines a silicone elastomer network with a biodegradable carrier, giving the silky feel of silicone with flexible rheology for creams, primers and serums. It won Functional Silver in Bangkok.
7. PrimalHyal NeuroYouth (Givaudan Active Beauty): hyaluronic acid meets neurocosmetics
PrimalHyal NeuroYouth combines low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid with selected amino acids, positioned to activate skin neuro-rejuvenation and restore the sense of touch. It won Actives Bronze in Bangkok.
8. Protecticire MB (Gattefossé): skincare thinking for hair
Protecticire MB is an all-natural texturising ingredient built on wax-butter technology that forms a soft, imperceptible shield on each hair fibre. It won Functional Bronze in Bangkok, where our team collected Gattefossé’s demonstration formulas built on it.
9. Lincare (BASF): recovery care after laser treatments
Lincare is a naturally derived active from flaxseed hull oligosaccharides, launched by BASF at in-cosmetics Asia 2026 for skin recovery after aesthetic laser treatments. BASF reports faster skin-barrier recovery in its own clinical testing (BASF announcement), which makes it relevant to clinic and post-procedure skincare lines.
10. Lactopalm Para (CODIF): a fermented active for pigmentation
Lactopalm Para is a red-algae active made by lacto-fermentation, based on floridoside, aimed at age spots and uneven pigmentation. CODIF launched it at in-cosmetics Global 2026 and presented it to our team at its stand in Bangkok.
What skincare trends for 2027 do these launches point to?
Skin longevity and regeneration replace “anti-ageing”
Skin longevity is the idea that skincare should keep skin resilient over time instead of only correcting visible signs of age. Beyond the winners, PDRN (polydeoxyribonucleotide) was the most visible regeneration ingredient in Bangkok, now often plant-derived or biotech-derived instead of salmon-derived, which matters to brands that need non-animal or halal-documented ingredients.
Neurocosmetics go global
Neurocosmetics are ingredients that act on the skin’s sensory nerve pathways to calm and soothe. With Gold in Paris, Bronze in Bangkok and several neuro-relax peptides in the Innovation Zone, this is the trend most likely to reach mass-market products in 2027.
Sun care innovation moves to the formula
Besides Evonik’s Functional Gold, BASF won the Spotlight On Formulation Gold for an SPF 50 / PA++++ tone-up sun lotion without octocrylene or ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, and Clariant launched Eclipsogen CAP Duo Z, a hybrid dispersion of organic filters and zinc oxide. Light, tone-up and filter-conscious sunscreens are where the new tools are going.
Texture and sensory become selling points
dsm-firmenich’s cooling Surpr-ICE Balm won the Formulation Silver, and encapsulation specialists such as KPT (Korea Particle Technology) showed coloured beads and capsules that make actives visible in the formula. Texture is how a customer judges a product at first touch.
Fragrance becomes its own category
in-cosmetics Asia ran its first Fragrance Zone and Fragrance Awards in 2026; Only Fragrances won with “Scent of You”, a floral, musky and creamy accord. Fine-fragrance-style scents for body care suit brands planning perfume and body mist ranges.
Which ingredients won Gold at each in-cosmetics show in 2026?
| Show | City and dates | Actives Gold | Functional Gold |
|---|---|---|---|
| in-cosmetics Global | Paris, 14–16 April 2026 | CALNEURIN® SENSE (RAHN) | ViscoPure® (PolymerExpert, Solabia Group) |
| in-cosmetics Korea | Seoul, 1–3 July 2026 | INTENSILK™ (Provital) | – |
| in-cosmetics Latin America | São Paulo, 23–24 September 2026 | See the official awards page | |
| in-cosmetics Asia | Bangkok, 3–5 November 2026 | Ignilyte™ (Vytrus Biotech) | TEGO® Filmstar BST1 (Evonik) |
When the same direction wins at shows in Europe and Asia in the same year, as neurocosmetics and biotech actives did in 2026, it is a safer base for a 2027 launch than a single-show novelty (Premium Beauty News review of in-cosmetics Global 2026).
How did ORIZI Group’s team use in-cosmetics Asia 2026?
Our Deputy General Manager led a team of six from Dr Orizi (M) Sdn. Bhd., ORIZI Group’s cosmetics and personal care company, made up of sales staff and chemists. Over three days the team met about 18 ingredient principals and distributors, including TINCI, TS-Biotech, Nikko Chemicals, Ashland, CODIF, Sunjin Beauty Science, Chemipol, Galaxy, Gattefossé, Transfar, KPT, KCC Beauty / Momentive and Winkey Active, and walked the Innovation Zone and Fragrance Zone. The day-by-day photo story is in our company news post on ORIZI Group’s visit to in-cosmetics Asia 2026.
Based on ORIZI Group’s manufacturing experience, a new active only becomes useful to a brand after three checks: the supplier’s technical and safety documentation, a compatibility and stability trial in the actual formula, and confirmation that the claims fit the target market’s cosmetic rules. That is why the team collected technical data and demonstration samples rather than only brochures. These ingredients join the principal network described in our ingredient library announcement and handled through our raw material sourcing service. Earlier show reports, such as our reading of Cosmoprof CBE ASEAN 2026 and our Cosmobeaute Malaysia 2026 recap, follow the same approach.
What should a brand check before launching with a new trendy ingredient?
- An award is not a product claim. Awards judge innovation; claims on a finished product need the brand’s own evidence or the supplier’s data at the dose actually used.
- Claims must fit the market’s cosmetic rules. In Malaysia, cosmetic claims follow the NPRA (National Pharmaceutical Regulatory Agency) guideline for cosmetic claims, which does not accept claims of an effect on mental wellbeing, so neurocosmetic products should talk about how skin feels, not about mood. Body actives should speak about the appearance of cellulite, not fat loss.
- Check the ingredient’s origin. Cosmetics may not contain cells, tissues or products of human origin under the EU-based ingredient lists that the ASEAN Cosmetic Directive follows (Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, Annex II; Malaysian annexes on the NPRA cosmetic guideline page). Exosome and PDRN ingredients for cosmetics should come from plant, marine or microbial sources, with documentation.
- Ask for halal documentation early if the product is for halal-certified lines, especially for ingredients with an animal or fermentation origin.
- Budget for cost-in-use and testing. New actives are often priced above established ones, and every new formula needs stability and compatibility testing before launch.
FAQ
What are the newest skincare ingredients of 2026?
The newest skincare ingredients recognised at the 2026 in-cosmetics shows include Ignilyte (Vytrus Biotech), CALNEURIN SENSE (RAHN), INTENSILK (Provital), GLYCARE SK RENEW (dsm-firmenich), PrimalHyal NeuroYouth (Givaudan Active Beauty) and BASF’s newly launched Lincare.
Which ingredient won in-cosmetics Asia 2026?
Ignilyte by Vytrus Biotech, a dragon-fruit stem-cell active, won the Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Award for Actives (Gold) at in-cosmetics Asia 2026 in Bangkok. Evonik’s TEGO Filmstar BST1 won Functional Gold, and BASF’s SPF 50 / PA++++ tone-up sun lotion won the Spotlight On Formulation Gold.
When and where was in-cosmetics Asia 2026?
in-cosmetics Asia 2026 was held from 3 to 5 November 2026 at BITEC (Bangkok International Trade & Exhibition Centre) in Bangkok, Thailand, alongside the COSMEX manufacturing exhibition.
What are the skincare trends for 2027?
Based on the 2026 in-cosmetics winners and launches, the main skincare trends for 2027 are skin longevity and regeneration, neurocosmetics, biotech and fermented actives, filter-conscious sun care, sensory textures, hair care using skincare science, and fine-fragrance-style body care.
Can a Malaysian brand use these new ingredients?
Yes, if the ingredient is permitted under the ASEAN Cosmetic Directive annexes and the product is notified to NPRA before sale. A manufacturer with access to the supplier can obtain samples and documentation, trial the ingredient in your formula and check the claims you plan to make.
Sources & references
- in-cosmetics Asia 2026 awards page – winners in every category.
- Industries Cosmétiques: The Winners of in-cosmetics Asia 2026 – descriptions of the winning ingredients.
- Happi: Winners Revealed at in-cosmetics Asia 2026 – award announcement and Fragrance Awards.
- in-cosmetics Global 2026 award winners (Paris).
- Personal Care Magazine: Provital takes in-cosmetics Korea active ingredient gold.
- in-cosmetics Asia 2026 press release – dates, exhibitor numbers and themes.
- BASF: Lincare launch at in-cosmetics Asia 2026.
- Dow: functional ingredients launched at in-cosmetics Asia 2026.
- NPRA Guideline for Cosmetic Claims (Annex I, Part 8) and EU Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009.
Update history: November 2026 — first published after in-cosmetics Asia 2026 (3–5 November 2026); restructured the same day as a top-ingredient list covering all four 2026 in-cosmetics shows.
Disclosure: This article is published by ORIZI Group and may refer to our own manufacturing experience, services and capabilities. External factual claims are supported by cited sources.
Planning a 2027 launch around one of these ingredients? Share your brief with our product R&D team, browse ready-to-adapt options in our Ready Formulas library, or contact ORIZI Group to start a feasibility review.
